Where to go to enjoy a panoramic view of the Japan Northern Alps? I would say head to Mount Chougatake!
Standing at a height of 2677m, Mount Chougatake is not even in the top ten in terms of the highest mountains in Japan. However, it is wildly popular as: 1) it is considered as one of the easier climbs within the Northern Alps, making it the first big climb for many new Japanese hikers; 2) no one who is into mountains would not be mesmerised by the view! On a good day, you can see two of the most famous mountains that hold a special place in many Japanese hikers' hearts: Mount Hotaka and Mount Yari, as well as the the Daikiretto ridge between them.
The Climb Up
There are several routes to Mount Chougatake: you can opt for the most common one starting from Mitsumata trailhead parking lot, which would take ~5 hours. Alternatively, you can start from Kamikochi and hike up, which would take ~6.5 hours. The latter was the route I took when I visited in 2018 and 2019. I have heard that the formal is more scenic, and that there is a dinosaur-looking tree somewhere along the route...! However, transportation is not as convenient: you would need to either drive or take a taxi to the starting point.
The route from Kamikochi is pretty flat for the first 2 hours. After Tokusawa Lodge, it gets steep quickly as you ascend from ~1500m to 2677m for the last 4.5 hours. There is not much to see during the climb: you pass through densely populated forest with the trees blocking the view for most of the way up. Towards the end, the forest opens up for you to absorb the incredible view (as well as a reminder that you have climbed quite far without you even realising).
I would never forget my first time breaking through the forest and seeing that view. It was such a fantastic reward! During my climb, I was regretting my decision to carry my full gear up the mountain, but once I reached the top, I was overwhelmed with the thought that it is all worth it in the end. The privilege of staying next to that view for the next two days overjoyed me so much that I ran towards the campsite despite my exhaustion.
My Personal Highlights
Unlike other mountains, where the peaks usually have limited space, Mount Chougatake has a spacious. flat area to pitch your tent. That in itself is a highlight for me as I get more space to maneuver around. The tent area is facing East, allowing you to pop your head out easily and watch the sunrise in the morning.
On the other side facing West, you get the panoramic view of the Japan Northern Alps: the ridge extending from Mount Norikuradake, Mount Yakedake, Mount Hotaka, Daikiretto to Mount Yari. Having an unobstructed view of my favourite mountains led to way too many photos; way too much excitement and perhaps way too many drinks! On my first trip, I spent most of my time drinking beer and eating away while enjoying the view.
As mentioned in my previous post on hiking from Kamikochi to Karasawa, I would definitely recommend the usual activities (i.e. sunrise; sunset and stargazing). Note that: 1) sunset is not as pretty as sunrise; 2) during sunrise, make sure to head to the West side to see the Japan Northern Alps 'blushing' in a lovely pink colour.
Watching nature performs its magic is always a highlight for me in every adventure, no matter where I go.
Tips
- All of the tips mentioned in my previous post on hiking from Kamikochi to Karasawa apply here as well
- Carry your tent if you have the gear and stamina. The view alone is worth the hard work
- Arrive as early as you can to secure a good spot for pitching your tent. Despite the relatively large area, it could get pretty crowded by early afternoon, especially during the weekends and public holidays
- Visit the mountain hut for some iced cold beer!
Facilities at the Mountain Hut
- Chougatake Hutte - Mountain hut / Campsite. Register and pay for your camping fee here before setting up your tent. You can use their toilet inside and purchase water (~200 yen per litre). Apart from the essentials, they have shop selling drinks, light food and souvenirs.
Route
- Kamikochi -> Myojin (~1 hour) -> Tokusawa (~1 hour) -> Mount Chougatake (~4.5 hours)
- Mitsumata trailhead parking lot -> Mameuchi-daira (2 hours and 20 minutes) -> Mount Chougatake (2 hours and 40 minutes)
- More information on the second route available here
Where to from Mount Chougatake?
- Mount Jonen - This pyramid shaped mountain seems to be right next to Mount Chougatake, but it takes 4.5 hours to get there. The route itself is not technical nor difficult. To me, it will always be THE mountain that I failed to pocket during my spring attempt back in 2019... Apparently, the view from Mount Jonen is the same as Mount Chougatake so you won't be missing out on much even if you were to skip it. Don't let me discourage you though! It is one of the 100 famous mountains in Japan that is definitely worth a visit. If you were to return to Mitsumata trailhead parking lot, you could even do so via Mount Jonen, which will take ~5.5 hours, thus allowing you to essentially do a round loop. More information is available here
Recommended Plan
- Relaxed itinerary - Two days one night trip. First day: Hike from Kamikochi to Mount Chougatake; camp / stay at the hut there. Second day: Hike back from Mount Chougatake to Kamikochi
- Even more relaxed itinerary - Two days one night trip. First day: Hike from Mitsumata trailhead parking lot to Mount Chougatake; camp / stay at the hut there. Second day: Hike back from Mount Chougatake to Mitsumata trailhead parking lot
- Peak pocketing itinerary - Three days two nights trip. First day: Hike from Kamikochi / Mitsumata trailhead parking lot to Mount Chougatake; camp / stay at the hut there. Second day: Hike from Mount Chougatake to Mount Jonen and hike back; camp / stay at the hut there. Third day: Hike back from Mount Chougatake to Kamikochi / Mitsumata trailhead
Access
- Via Kamikochi - As Kamikochi is part of the Chubu Sangaku National Park, private cars and motorcycles are not allowed to enter. I would recommend taking the direct bus from major cities (Osaka, Tokyo, etc.) or the Shinkasen to Matsumoto station then local bus to Kamikochi. More information is available here
- Via Mitsumata trailhead parking lot - There is no public transport directly to Mitsumata trailhead parking lot. You would have to either drive there or take a taxi from the nearby Hotaka station. Important note: Phone reception is pretty bad there, so ensure that you have made the necessary phone calls on the mountain before you descend down to the parking lot. Especially if you are looking to book a taxi to pick you up! More information is available here
