Another favourite place of mine for camping and hiking is Karasawa Cirque in the Japanese Northern Alps. Situated between the third and ninth tallest mountains in Japan (i.e. Mount Okuhotaka and Mount Kitahotaka), it is a stunning place filled with many colourful tents. During peak seasons, the number of tents could reach up to 2000! As such, it has earned the loving nickname of "Tent Village" by the Japanese mountaineering community.
Watching the Seasons Unfold
Karasawa is priced for its Autumn landscape, with trees dressed in different shades of red between the end of September to mid October. It is a breathtaking sight to behold. As such, it could get incredibly busy during the Autumn period. I have heard accounts in which hikers queue for 30+ minutes to go to the washroom, both along the mountain huts heading towards Karasawa and within Karasawa! If you would like to visit during that time, I would highly recommend booking everything way in advance (i.e. 3 - 4 months for bus tickets, 1 - 2 months for mountain hut); avoiding the weekends and Japanese public holidays and starting your hike as early as you can such that you could secure a spot in the campsite.
Personally, I think Karasawa reveals its beauty throughout the year and not just limited to Autumn. I have visited in spring and summer and on each occasion, I found something new to love about the place. Between November and June, it is covered in ice and snow which made it mysterious and strangely glamorous. Between July to September, it embraces green lustre complimented with delicate mountain flowers. I found that seasons unfold in a more distinctive way in the mountain compared to the city, and I grew to appreciate the wonders of nature since becoming a hiker.
The Climb Up
The most common route is from Kamikochi to Yokoo then Karasawa, which takes ~6 hours. The first 3 hours to Yokoo is a breeze, with mostly flat and well-paved paths; clean public toilets; mountain huts and campsites dotted along the way to cater for the general tourists. If you ever get tired, you could camp somewhere in between Kamikochi and Yokoo and resume the hike the next day.
You would be walking next to the Azusa River, which flows from a spring located deep within Mount Yari. On a sunny day, these pure alpine waters are so clear that they reflect the surrounding mountains and the blue skies above. If you are not walking next to the river, you would be passing through forestry where you might encounter families of red-faced monkeys. The wonderful scenery aside, it is the hikers that have made the strongest impression on me. Once I got off the bus at 5:30am, I along with all the other hikers would rush towards the same direction, to get away from the touristy spots and embed ourselves deep within the alps. I will always remember the long line of hikers with their colourful 50L+ backpacks, chatting away with buzzing energy despite their lack of sleep the night before, while speed walking to get to their next destination.
At Yokoo, the route splits into two: one heading towards Mount Yari and the other crossing a bridge towards Karasawa. This is also the last checkpoint with public toilets and shops to stock up on food and water.
After crossing the bridge, it would be another 3-hour hike, mostly upwards instead of flats. Along the way, you would pass through more forestry, another bridge and several valleys before you see the mountain huts at Karasawa. By then, you are probably knackered and thankful that you have finally made it!
My Personal Highlights
One of my must-do in Karasawa is to watch hikers climbing from Karasawa to Mount Okuhotaka while enjoying a cup of coffee or a glass of beer, depending on the time of the day. I would trace their route as they cross the valley, navigate the steep and stoney terrains and eventually ascend towards the peak.
Another must-do is to watch the sunrise. I spent some of my best mornings of my life there. I was lucky to experience the golden hour, during which daylight is redder and softer than when the sun is higher in the sky, with the mountains as a canvas in the background. I would ensure that I climb out of my tent before the sunrise; make a hot cup of coffee and ready myself for the magic show. Even if I had plans to start climbing in the dark, I would stop and admire the sunrise every time. I could not think of a more perfect way to start the day!
Sunset is not as dramatic as sunrise, but still worth waiting for with a bowl of warm oden (Japanese one-pot dish) from the mountain hut.
Star-gazing is another must do. Karasawa has close to zero light pollution as it is deep within the mountains, far away from civilisation. In addition, it is located at approximately 2000m above sea level, which means that the sky looks closer and brighter than usual. I have spent many evenings with my head out of my tent, admiring the stars above and contemplating about life...
If you are lucky, you might also encounter rock partridges (or Raichou in Japanese). These high altitude birds are seasonally camouflaged; their feather moult from white in winter to brown in spring or summer. I see them as small and cute turkeys with exceptionally large feet. I have had the luck to spot a couple of them during my hike to Karasawa so keep your eyes out!
Tips
- Book everything well in advance, especially during Autumn (i.e. 3 - 4 months for bus tickets, 1 - 2 months for mountain hut)
- Pack light given that it is a 6-hour hike to Karasawa, with everything on your shoulders
- Bring warm clothes even during the summer season, as it could get chilly in the evening given the elevation
- Avoid going during the off-season (i.e. November - June, noting that mountain huts are usually open from the end of April - June) if you have not done winter climbing before! The route and Karasawa itself are covered in snow and you would need to be an experienced winter mountaineer to get through it safely
- Do your research on the route and weather condition before heading out!
- Submit a trekking itinerary; more information is available here
- Buy mountaineering insurance, not a must but highly recommended. If you were to get injured / lost in a mountain in Japan, you would have to pay for your own helicopter rescue which costs a fortune. Note that standard travel insurance does not cover helicopter rescue. You can buy short term (i.e. less than a week) mountaineering insurance at Kamikochi near the bus terminal, however I would advise buying in advance for your peace of mind
- Target to arrive at Karasawa before 2pm; FYI - It takes ~6 hours to hike from Kamikochi to Karasawa for an average hiker with a ~12kg backpack
- Bring a change of clothing; reserve time to enjoy the public bath in Kamikochi on your return journey. Wash off before rejoining civilisation! My go-to place is Konashidaira camping retreat. More information is available here
Facilities at Karasawa
- Karasawa Hutte - Mountain hut #1 / Campsite. Register and pay for your camping fee here before setting up your tent! You can use their toilet / get drinking tap water from the basins outside. Apart from the essentials, they have vending machines; shop selling drinks, light food, oden (Japanese one-pot dish) and souvenirs and a big outdoor sitting area. You can even rent a climbing helmet on a per day basis (which I recommend if you were to scale the peaks nearby).
- Karasawa-koya - Mountain hut #2. It has similar facilities as Karasawa Hutte but smaller. It is famous for its freshly poured beer; motsuni (Japanese tripe stew) and the view of the tent village!
Route
- Kamikochi -> Myojin (~1 hour) -> Tokusawa (~1 hour) -> Yokoo (~1.3 hours) -> Karasawa (3 hours)
- More information is available here
Where to from Karasawa?
- Mount Okuhotaka - At 3190m, the highest peak in the Hotaka mountain range and the third highest mountain in Japan. It takes ~6 hours roundtrip from Karasawa. Absolutely not for beginners! You would need proper hiking boots and experience with scrambling, climbing, etc. before attempting this route. In particular, there is one section in which you would have to 'hug' a large rock using chains with quite a bit of exposure in the Seitengrat region. Once you get through the climb, you would be rewarded with a spectacle view of Kamikochi and the peaks around it. If you have additional time and energy, you could pocket Mount Maehotaka nearby as well which is around 2 hours from Mount Okuhotaka. More information is available here
- Mount Kitahotaka - At 3106m, it is the ninth highest mountain in Japan. Similar to Mount Okuhotaka, it takes ~5.5 hours roundtrip from Karasawa; you would need proper hiking gear and experience with scrambling, climbing, etc. Compared to the Mount Okuhotaka route, this is considered to be a little more technical with additional ladder and chain sections, as well as narrow pathways with exposure. The view is worth it though! Throughout the climb, you would have an unparalleled view of Karasawa Cirque. Once you have reached the top, you would have earned the privilege to admire Mount Yari and the famous traverse Daikiretto! More information is available here
Recommended Plan
- Relaxed itinerary - Three days two nights trip. First day: Hike from Kamikochi to Yokoo; camp / stay at the hut in Yokoo. Second day: Hike from Yokoo to Karasawa; camp / stay at the hut in Karasawa. Third day: Hike from Karasawa to Kamikochi
- Peak pocketing itinerary - Four days three nights trip. First day: Hike from Kamikochi to Karasawa; camp / stay at the hut in Karasawa. Second day: Hike from Karasawa to Mount Okuhotaka and Mount Maehotaka / Mount Kitahotaka and hike back; camp / stay at the hut in Karasawa. Third day: Same as the second day for the peak that you did not climb. Fourth day: Hike from Karasawa to Kamikochi
- There are other routes that you could explore. For examples, hike from Mount Okuhotaka to Mount Kitahotaka, which is for expert climbers only, or hike via the Dakesawa route or the Hida route. More information is available here
Access
- Via Kamikochi - As Kamikochi is part of the Chubu Sangaku National Park, private cars and motorcycles are not allowed to enter. I would recommend taking the direct bus from major cities (Osaka, Tokyo, etc.) or the Shinkasen to Matsumoto station then local bus to Kamikochi. More information is available here
